Woman applying hyaluronic acid serum with a dropper to her cheek on a snowy winter morning

How Do I Use Hyaluronic Acid? A Guide for Dry Winter Skin

JOVEEN

To use hyaluronic acid, apply a few drops of serum to clean skin morning and evening, then follow straight away with a moisturiser to seal the hydration in, and finish with SPF in the morning. Many hyaluronic acid serums work best on slightly damp skin, but always follow the directions on your product, as some are designed for dry skin. If your skin feels tight in the colder months, the moisturiser step matters even more.

Below, we explain what hyaluronic acid does, the right order to apply it, how to make it work through a UK winter, and which formulas suit different skin.

What is hyaluronic acid, and what does it do for skin?

Despite the name, hyaluronic acid is not an exfoliating acid and does not peel the skin. It is a sugar-based molecule that your body makes naturally, and it is found in the skin, where it helps hold on to water.

In skincare, hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means an ingredient that attracts water and helps keep it in the upper layers of the skin. That is why skin often looks plumper, smoother and more comfortable soon after applying it. It is generally well tolerated, which makes it one of the easiest ingredients to add to almost any routine, including sensitive skin.

You will often see terms such as "low molecular weight" or "multi-weight" hyaluronic acid on labels. These simply describe the size of the molecules. Larger molecules tend to sit on the surface and give an instant smoothing feel, while smaller ones are used for lighter, layered hydration. Many modern formulas combine several sizes.

Is my skin dry or dehydrated, and does it matter?

It helps to know the difference, because it changes what your skin needs:

Dehydrated skin is short of water. It can feel tight, look dull, and show fine lines that seem to come and go. Any skin type can be dehydrated, including oily skin.
Dry skin is short of oil (lipids). It often feels rough or flaky and may stay uncomfortable all day.

Hyaluronic acid mainly helps with dehydration, by adding water. Dry skin also needs a moisturiser that contains oils or richer, cushioning ingredients to help reduce water loss. Most people with tight winter skin have a bit of both, which is why hyaluronic acid and a moisturiser work best as a pair. Our guide to skin barrier health explains this in more detail.

How do I apply hyaluronic acid serum step by step?

Cleanse gently. Choose a cleanser that leaves your skin feeling soft rather than squeaky.
Add a hydrating first layer (optional). A toner-like layer such as the CLINICCARE X3M EGF Refresh Liquid Moisturiser, which is rich in low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, can be patted on first. It also leaves skin slightly damp for the next step.
Apply your serum. Use two or three drops, or the amount on the pack, and press it gently over the face and neck. Check the instructions: some serums ask for damp skin, while others, such as the MZ Skin serum below, recommend applying to clean, dry skin.
Seal it in with a moisturiser. Apply your moisturiser within a minute or two, while the serum still feels fresh on the skin.
Morning only: finish with SPF. A broad-spectrum sunscreen is your last step every morning, all year round.

Why does my skin still feel tight after using hyaluronic acid?

This is one of the most common questions we get, especially from October onwards. A few things are usually behind it:

No moisturiser on top. Hyaluronic acid draws in water, but it needs a moisturiser over it to help keep that water in the skin. In dry air, such as a centrally heated home, many skin experts suggest this step is essential.
Your cleanser is too stripping. Foaming washes that leave skin squeaky can undo the benefit of a hydrating serum.
Your skin needs more oil, not just water. If your skin is dry as well as dehydrated, switch to a richer moisturiser in winter.
Too many strong actives. Using exfoliating acids or retinol too often can leave skin feeling raw. Hyaluronic acid soothes the feeling, but cutting back on the actives fixes the cause.

Which hyaluronic acid product is right for me?

All of these contain hyaluronic acid. The best choice depends on your skin and what else you would like your serum to do.

For a simple, everyday hydrating serum: the Dermaroller Hyaluronic Acid Serum is designed for daily use morning and evening, before moisturiser, to help skin look plumper and more hydrated.
For dry, mature or sun-exposed skin: the CLINICCARE EGF Refresh Serum combines hyaluronic acid with antioxidants and EGF peptides. EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) is a signalling peptide that occurs naturally in skin. CLINICCARE recommends applying it to cleansed skin twice a day.
For a multi-tasking serum with peptides: the MZ Skin Bio-Placenta Hyaluronic Acid Serum pairs multi-weight hyaluronic acid with peptides, niacinamide and gluconolactone (a gentle PHA). Despite the name, its Bio-Placenta is a vegan, lab-grown ingredient. MZ Skin describes it as suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
To seal it all in on mature, dry skin: the CLINICCARE Premium Time Reverse Face & Neck Cream is a richer moisturiser with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, made for dry, dehydrated and mature skin on the face, neck and décolletage.

You can see more options for tight, thirsty skin in our Dry & Dehydrated collection.

Can I use hyaluronic acid with retinol, vitamin C or exfoliating acids?

Yes. Hyaluronic acid sits comfortably alongside most other ingredients, which is one of the reasons it is so popular. A simple way to layer:

Morning: vitamin C serum, then hyaluronic acid, then moisturiser and SPF.
Evening: retinol or an exfoliating acid (not both on the same night while you are starting out), followed by hyaluronic acid and moisturiser to keep skin comfortable.

If you use prescription skincare, check with your prescriber before changing your routine.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use hyaluronic acid twice a day?

Yes. Most hyaluronic acid serums are designed for use morning and evening. Follow the directions on your product.

Is hyaluronic acid suitable for oily or breakout-prone skin?

Usually, yes. Oily skin can still be dehydrated, and hyaluronic acid serums tend to be light and non-greasy. Pair it with a lighter moisturiser rather than skipping moisturiser altogether.

Can I use hyaluronic acid around my eyes?

Many people pat a small amount around the eye area, but avoid getting product in the eyes, and check the instructions first, as some serums advise against it.

Do I need to patch test hyaluronic acid?

It is a sensible habit with any new product, especially if your skin is sensitive. Apply a little behind the ear or along the jaw for a few days before using it across your face.